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A Dead Sea swimming expedition can have some unusual side effects on the body
It was dark when I arrived in Ein Bokek along with a small group of travel journalists.
I’d travelled a long way to float in the Dead Sea and we were leaving for Jerusalem in the morning. If I was going to soak, I’d have to stumble down to the sea through the tar-tinted night.
If only I could see where the sea was.
Dead Sea Swimming
“Who wants to swim?” I asked the others as we checked into the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel in Ein Bokek, a popular Dead Sea spa resort in Israel.
If I was going to drown in the dark in the lowest point on earth, I reasoned, it would be nice to have company.
Can you drown in the Dead Sea? Yes. You can’t sink, but if you’re face down in the water, you still can’t breathe.
We’d had a long day exploring the Judaean Desert and had mud wraps scheduled for later than night, so only one person took me up on the offer, the amiable Rod Charles, a big burly writer and editor at the travel website Vacay.ca.
Fifteen minutes later, after I’d checked in, soared up to the 8th floor in the hotel’s glass elevator and slapped on a bikini and coverup, I met Rod in the lobby.
Searching For the Sea
“Where is the Dead Sea and which way to the beach?” we asked the bellman.
“The hotel beach is closed now,” he said. “But if you go down through the parking lot and across the street there’s a public beach just to the left.
The Dead Sea at night
Of course I wouldn’t go wandering through the dark in foreign country to float in a pitch black sea on my own (oh, who am I kidding? I wouldn’t have missed soaking in the Dead Sea for anything).
With Rod padding along beside me I felt much safer, especially when we were joined by six women who’d just checked in with a tour group and were leaving Ein Bokek at 7:30 a.m.
Can You Swim in the Dead Sea at Night?
We found the beach and looked out at the water uncertainly. It was so dark it was barely distinguishable from the blue black sky.
Across this dark stretch of nothingness the lights of Jordan sparkled faintly, and under our feet was a crusty mix of sand and salt crystals.
“At least we won’t sink,” one of the women said.
True. Because of the Dead Sea’s high salinity (340 grams of salt per litre of water), all you can do is float.
I stepped in tentatively, trying to think about the water’s minerals such as bromide, magnesium and potash, rather than about sharks biting my stomach.
Then, remembering the Dead Sea is so salty, almost 10 times saltier than the Mediterranean, that nothing remotely shark-like can survive in it, I waded in.
The water was cool, the night air soft as a powder puff and in no time we were all in hysterics, floating on our backs then trying to turn over while our legs kept bobbing up to the top.
I drifted off from the others, enjoying a surreal floating Dead Sea sensation, when a blood-curdling howl blasted through my serenity.
The voice was Rod’s.
The Dead Sea Sting
I looked towards shore as Rod burst out of the water and launched into a frenzied dance, clutching his bathing suit in a place polite traveller don’t usually clutch.
“Argh! My p***s! Where’s the fresh water shower?”
Who knew that floating in the Dead Sea can have a burning effect on certain personal areas of the body? Unfortunately I was too busy laughing to be properly sympathetic as Rod ran to a beachside shower and held his bathing trunks open to the fresh water stream.
Whatever floats your boat
Guessing correctly that Rod’s sprint out of the water signalled the end of our Dead Sea floating expedition, I suggested we check out the Daniel Hotel Dead Sea’s spa.
“They have a sulphur water pool,” I told Rod, intrigued that the Dead Sea, in addition to being saltier than a bag of Cheetos, has mineral-rich medicinal hot springs to tap into. “I’m sure it’s very soothing.”
“Is it salty?” Rod asked, terror in his voice.
“I don’t think so,” I said, having absolutely no clue.
Shizen Spa at the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel
The 320-room Daniel Hotel has a large wellness centre with an indoor/outdoor swimming pool, a sauna, steam bath and full-service spa. The section with the sulphur pool is separate and Rod and I were the only ones there.
Medicinal hot springs at the Dead Sea
The pool was small, the water hot and it smelled gloriously of sulphur – my favourite kind of mineral springs. I slid into the water and a drop splashed on my lips.
“It’s as salty as the sea,” I warned. “Maybe you’d better not go in.”
“It should be okay,” Rod said, taking the plunge. Two seconds later he screamed, leapt out of the poo and dashed into an alcove with a poolside shower.
I was laughing so hard water burst up from my guffawing mouth into my eyes. It stung so badly it felt like I’d just stuck a burning bush into my eyeballs.
“Argghghghhh!” I shrieked. “I’m blind!” Eyes shut tight against the pain, my arms flailing in front of me I burst out of the pool and followed the sound of running water to the shower.
“Um, you do realize I’m in the shower, right?” Rod said.
Don’t mess with a burning woman
“Out of my way!” Rod may be big but he’s no match for a women with her eyes full of salt water. I tossed him aside like a twig (though he may see things differently as he was the only one with his eyes open) and shoved my face under the shower.
Within three seconds I was ack to normal and realized this: The salt sting is temporary, floating in the Dead Sea is marvellously unique and gives new meaning to the quote by Muhammad Ali: “float like a butterfly,sting like a bee.”
Travel guide for the Dead Sea and Ein Bokek, Israel
Does the Dead Sea sting the skin?
In Rod’s defence, many people have reported stinging in delicate areas from the high salt content in the Dead Sea. Google ‘burning, painful private parts in the Dead Sea’ or ‘Dead Sea burning sensation’ and you’ll see he’s not alone.
That said, the sting of the Dead Sea happens to a minority of people, and should subside after a few minutes in the water – although as Rod kept sprinting out of the water at the first sign of pain (hahaha) it was difficult to test this theory firsthand.
How to protect yourself from stinging your delicate skin at the Dead Sea
Rule #1: Don’t shave your legs If you’ve recently shaved, the Dead Sea stings like an entire hive of bees, but the irritation doesn’t last. (This was a theory I tested firsthand.)
Use common sense. If the irritation is too intense get out of the water.
Personally, I wouldn’t shave for at least a couple of days beforehand – the spa therapists must surely be used to hairy legs so leave your smooth-skinned vanity at home.
Protecting gentlemanly private areas
Rod says (and this is embarrassing to write) that the next time he swims in the Dead Sea he’ll be wearing a, er, um, protection. It’s a thought.
Womanly parts
It’s not only men who suffer when floating in the Dead Sea. Women – if you have a problem (and this is equally embarrassing to write) try vaseline.
Don’t pour salt in the wound
Good luck to you if you have a cut.
Dead Sea Facts
Dead Sea salt benefits
It might sting in a cut, but the water of the Dead Sea is said to be an effective healing treatment for psoriasis, eczema and other skin ailments. It’s also used to treat conditions such as rheumatism, arthritis and joint pain.
Why is the Dead Sea so salty?
Water comes in through rivers and streams but it has no way to flow out, so the only way water gets out is through evaporation, leaving salts and minerals behind.
About the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel in Ein Bokek, Israel
Centrally located in Ein Bokek, the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel has a large outdoor pool and overlooks the Dead Sea. It has a restaurant, nightclub, large wellness centre and a private beach across the street where you can do your own Dead Sea floating (with a lifeguard on duty).
Don’t miss: Getting a mud wrap at the hotel’s Shizen Spa Dead Sea.
Nightlife in Ein Bokek
Generally hotel restaurants in Ein Bokek are not known for their gourmet cuisine and geared more to buffets. (I only had breakfast at the Daniel so I can’t report on the cuisine, other than the breakfast, which was excellent.)
For supper we ate at the tent-like Taj Mahal restaurant, in walking distance from the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel and not far from the Leonardo Inn Hotel. It specializes in fresh Middle Eastern cuisine such as hummus, salads and grilled meats.
Nightlife at the Daniel Hotel
You don’t go to Ein Bokek for the nightlife. It’s more of a soak and spa centre.
That said, the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel has a lobby lounge and nightclub, which, when I was there, came complete with a man on the dance floor wearing a gold glitter shirt. It’s hard to top that for excitement.
In fact the only thing more exciting is a nighttime Dead Sea floating adventure.
Read more travel blog posts about Israel
For a good overview, check out my 7-day Israel Itinerary.
After my hosted trip, I extended my stay to spend a few wonderful days just outside Ein Bokek at Herod’s Hotel & Spa. It was so relaxing.
Near Ein Bokek, I had a misadventure in the Judean Desert.
A fascinating site is Caesarea – from King Herod to the Crusaders
Attitude at the Mount of Beatitudes: A trip to the Holy Land
One day in Old Jaffa, Tel Aviv
For more information on visiting Israel check outGo Israel, the Israel Tourism Board site. My visit was subsidized by the Israeli Tourism Board, all opinions and heartless laughter at a man in pain are my own.
Best hotel in Victoria Falls, Royal Livingstone Hotel
Masada is a great excursion from the Dead Sea, Sandra. I agree.
Great story. My experience at Dead Sea wasn’t much better as I got water in my eyes and like your friend I felt a burn in my privates. My glasses were ruined and the floor of sea was like walking on broken glass. My mother faired better in our hotel’s pool but she said that the air at Dead Sea made her feel better. I did get to Masada and that was great! I have a short story with pics on my blog sandraharrison1954.com.
We’re drooling while we imagine ourselves in those gorgeous scenes. 💦
We have dreamed of doing this too. Your DIY trip seems like the way to go for sure.
Thanks for sharing all the details that can make it a reality. Very cool. 😇
I loved the Dead Sea when I was there! Great tips and I loved the photos!
Hahaha!! This was such a funny read! Other than the stinging, swimming in the Dead Sea has always sounded amazing to us.
Hi Janice, I was all about the water AND the Dead Sea mud, in fact I use Dead Sea salts on my face even today – I brought home so many packets. Rod and I also did mud wraps at the Daniel Hotel and he reports it didn’t burn at all. Poor you, Janice! Glad you recovered.
Hi Anda, Yes, I enjoyed it much more during the day, but Dead Sea floating at night is an experience I’ll always cherish.
Poor Rod! We’d heard that slathering Dead Sea mud all over you is good for the skin. Unfortunately for those of us with sensitive skin (like me, Janice), it can cause a bad rash – I ended up with big red bumps on my face, neck and chest. So much for that beauty regimen! My skin did recover in a week though :-).
Beautiful journey. I don’t think I would like to float in the Dead Sea at night, but for sure I’d like to try it during the day time. I always wondered how it would feel not to sing while being in deep water. The Daniel Dead Sea Hotel looks great. I may be checking it out if I’ll be in the area.
I enjoyed reading your post, a lot of great information and very entertaining. Your friend Rod sure is a trooper ;). I admired that you and Rod took a dip in the sea at night after a long day of travel. I’ve always wanted to go experience a dip in the dead sea, and now I’m even more intrigued. The Daniel Dead Sea Hotel in Ein Bokek looks like a fab place to stay, I”ll be certain to check it out if I make the journey.
Thanks, Jackie – You’ve made my day. And best of all, Rod is still speaking to me.
Carol, I love reading about your adventures! You always crack me up! So glad the effects of the salt are temporary. Appreciate the forewarning about the shaving and other delicate topics, as well! ;)
Thanks, Trisha – Thank goodness those ‘scientific effects’ are temporary. The healing benefits last longer!
Hi, Lingy – My mud wrap at Shizen was so good – I’m in love with mud. Thanks for commenting.
Great post and I wouldn’t think that floating in the Dead Sea would have a lot of ‘scientific’ effects. Good to know I learned something today. Would love to do this in the future! Thanks for sharing! Xx
What an enjoyable post! I would love to float in the Dead Sea one day. Great tips and info on it and I wouldn’t be able to pass up a relaxing treatment at the Shizen Spa! I hope your friend Rod has recovered! :p
LOL the Dead Sea looks beautiful but I think I’d save my dipping for the Shizen Spa at Daniel Dead Sea Hotel. Fun post!
Thanks, Elaine. Well, I certainly enjoyed floating in the Dead Sea at night. Not so sure about Rod. Haha.
Great story – in retrospect! I don’t know if floating in the Dead Sea at night would’ve been my first choice but it looked wonderfully mysterious. Hope Rod is repaired! I’ll remember about shaving when I finally get there.
I so agree, Laura. I liked the Dead Sea so much I went back on my own for a few days at the end of our Israel tour.
I wouldn’t have missed it for anything either. You have to float in the Dead See if you have the chance. I did it many years ago and still remember all the screams from women who had just shaved their legs. It’s so fun bobbing in the salt water though.