One day in Antibes, South of France

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Here’s a fabulous way to spend a day in Antibes in the South of France

Article by Patricia Sands

One day in Antibes – the blockbuster Château Grimaldi

In the summer of 1946, artist Pablo Picasso was in a good mood. The war was over and he was in the south of France with his new lover Françoise Gilot, who was 40 years younger.

Staying in Golfe-Juan, close to Antibes, through a chance meeting on the beach Picasso was offered space for a studio in the Musée Grimaldi. A Roman fort that was rebuilt in the 14thC, it was being used at the time as a provincial antiquities museum.

Although Picasso only used the Château Grimaldi for a couple of months he was prodigious, leaving 22 paintings and 43 drawings to be kept on display in the space. Picasso donated this work to the museum, stipulating it should remain there permanently. “Anyone who wants to see them will have to come to Antibes,” he declared.”

Chateau Grimaldi

If it was good enough for Picasso …

Picasso’s time in Antibes has been described as giving him a new lease on life. Today, the Musée Picasso in the Château Grimaldi bears witness to that. It’s well worth a visit.

So … if you’re interested in a new lease on life or simply looking for a very special day to remember, I suggest you spend one day in Antibes. It works for me! I return to the charming medieval vieille ville every chance I get.

Antibes, a port in any storm

Let the one day in Antibes adventure begin

A quick ten-minute walk from the train station, straight down Avenue de la Libération and then Avenue du Verdun, drops your jaw at the sight of the yachts in Port Vauban. To your right, the ancient ramparts border the spanking new Pré des Pêcheurs with its art installations and massive underground parking garage.

Stroll through the arch in the 500-year-old wall and discover the Bureau de Tourisme directly in front of you. There’s also an office in Place Général De Gaulle, in the newer part of town.

Graham Green drank here

Graham Greene in Antibes

Make a quick left and then turn right at Félix Café, author Graham Greene’s hangout for all the years he lived a few blocks away in a nondescript apartment.

Provençal market

The scent of Antibes

Now you’re on Rue Aubernon. A short walk up the street will bring you to the rich abundance of stalls and festival of fragrances of the daily Provençal market (closed Mondays from September 1 to May 31).

Bistros and bars line the market. Take a break. Sip a strong espresso or a smooth café crème with your patisserie of choice, and indulge in some excellent people watching.

Open the door to Antibes

Day trip to Antibes – the ancient streets

When you’re ready, meander the most ancient streets behind the market and the Hôtel de Ville.

The exquisite Cathedral draws you in to admire the Louis Brea masterpiece, before you climb the nearby stairs to the Musée Picasso in the striking Château Grimaldi. Ta daaaa! It had to happen!

Lovely to look at

Take your time

You might only have one day in Antibes, but it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t linger. Don’t forget to go into the sculpture garden with its panoramic view over to Cap d’Antibes. You’ll notice a walk all along the ramparts from the intimate cove of Plage de la Gravette around the bay to Plage de la Salis on the Cap. If you have the time, the photo ops are irresistible.

Entrez-vous ~ the old town awaits

Time for a lunch break? Wander through the warren of narrow streets to discover terrace restaurants in Place Nationale or choose from a number of tempting options.

A place to meander

Antibes amble

If you amble in the afternoon, you’ll discover exquisite patisseries, colourful boutiques and a spectacular chocolatier where one room is built out of chocolate … even the walls! Stop in at Choopy’s to sample the delicious cupcakes Julie and Victor bake in their cosy coffee shop. Pop into the popular Antibes Books and say hello to Fenella for me!

Look for two of my favourite Antibes spots

La Chapelle de Saint-Bernardin – As are many other buildings here, this 16th Century chapel is built on Roman ruins. The doors breathed history to me as I often pressed my fingertips to the rich wood. The year 1581 is carved into them. After suffering a terrible plague, the survivors had these doors carved to give thanks to God for its end.

Place du Safranier – In the heart of the old town is this free commune that keeps ancient fêtes and traditions alive. Here, Nikos Kazantzakis wrote Zorba the Greek (he lived at no. 8 rue du Bas-Castellet). Pause at the simple stone bench in the quiet spot dedicated to him.

A place to sit and contemplate

At the end of your day trip to Antibes, you’ll be planning your return visit. Je vous promets!