This post may contain affiliate links.
“Those on whom legends are built are their own legends.” —Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
One thing was becoming clear to me while I was having a tantrum at Angelina, a Belle Epoque tearoom and pastry shop on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris – Coco Chanel would not be impressed.
Neither was the tearoom manager.
But all I was trying to do was become a paragon of style and follow in the footsteps of Coco Chanel in Paris.
Channeling Chanel
My desire to retrace the footsteps of Coco Chanel came from one thing. The fake Chanel bag I bought when I was young. I was quite proud of the black quilted bag until my sister pointed out a passage in a cheeky book that explained how to dress like a mob wife. In addition to big hair and shopping at designer discount outlets, a fake Chanel bag was a must.
The bag had to go. My life had to change. I was going to be a person who carried a real designer bag, a person Coco Chanel would approve of (as long as I didn’t have to give up big hair and designer outlets, too).
Gabrielle Coco Chanel – a diamond from a gritty past
But Coco Chanel didn’t start out as any icon of class either. After her mother died and her father deserted the family, she was raised in a convent, and went on to be a lowly-paid seamstress while singing in a rowdy Parisian cabaret.
Busy creating her own legend, Chanel would later deny her past, dismissing stories that she came from “goodness knows where: from the music hall, the opera or the brothel; I’m sorry, for that would have been more amusing.”
So, in the spirit of creating my own legend, let’s say I’ve never had a fake Chanel bag. And now let our Footsteps of Coco Chanel in Paris Tour begin!
One day in Paris: following the footsteps of Coco Chanel
Any self-respecting Coco Chanel tour beelines for the Rue Cambon near the Place Vendôme, where she opened her first shop in 1910 at No. 21 (which is somehow now at No. 31. It gets confusing because she owned 5 boutiques on the street at one time).
It was a modest start, a hat shop called Chanel Modes, backed by two of her wealthy lovers, one who she’d left for the other.
Standing across the street from the glamorous boutique I rise up on my tiptoes, trying to see into the third floor apartment where she lived before moving to the Ritz.
I’ve seen photos of the interior, the Oriental screens and gilt-framed mirrors show her taste in decor was as chic as her love for dropped waists, little black dresses and comfortable jersey fabric that ‘freed women from the tyranny of constraint.’
Inside the House of Chanel
The Chanel store is bustling: young Asian couples browsing accessories, Scandinavian blondes trying on Chanel flats and a pudgy American man who makes me want to applaud when he buys his slightly frumpy wife a purse.
Then I see THE BAG. The genuine Chanel bag that will change my life and up my fashion ante. It’s intricate and fun, with braiding around the borders and skin as black and shiny as an oil slick off the coast of Normandy.
Money can’t buy you love, unless you love a purse
“How much?” I ask the clerk, twirling around to admire the new woman-who-carries-chic-Chanel-bag me in the mirror.
When I translate the amount into dollars and come up with $7,000, I hear a loud clanging in my ears, set the bag down and settle for a spritz of Chanel Gardenia Perfume instead.
Leaving the House of Chanel in a cloud of scent, I tell myself I may not have the bag of my dreams but as Coco said, “A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future,” so at least I have that.
Coco Chanel at the Ritz
Normally, the footsteps of Coco Chanel in Paris would lead straight to the Ritz Hotel, where she kept an apartment (and had an affair with a Nazi officer during the war). After the war, when she was charged with collaborating with the Nazis because of the relationship, a mature Chanel tartly replied: “Really, sir, a woman of my age who has the chance of a lover cannot be expected to look at his passport.”
It’s rumoured Winston Churchill intervened on Chanel’s behalf, but a shadow lingers over the famous designer to this day. Like so much about the enigmatic designer, I suppose we’ll never know the real story.
The Ritz is closed for renovations so I can’t go inside. No matter, I’m on a mission. If I can’t have Chanel I’m buying Balenciaga.
The Chanel trail leads to Maison Balenciaga on Avenue George V
If there was one designer Chanel respected it was Cristóbal Balenciaga. While not a household name like Chanel, to devout fans he was a religion, and at one time this publicity-shunning Spanish-born designer was the most expensive couturier in France.
Inside Balenciaga
The shop on Georges V is empty except for a security guard and the salesclerk, both of whom I co-opt in helping me choose the perfect still-expensive-but-not-$7,000 classic Balenciaga bag.
“Oh, but the anthracite is more current,” the salesman says, and I earnestly nod my head in agreement.
Armed with my new Balenciaga Giant 12 Silver Town, a lambskin shoulder bag with perky, yet tasteful silver studs, I’m ready for the final stop of my Coco Chanel Sights Tour – Angelina, a legendary teahouse that has been tempting discerning tastebuds since 1903.
Coco drank cocoa at Angelina
I assumed I’d waltz on in to this confection of a teahouse at 226 Rue de Rivoli, where Coco Chanel was said to enjoy an “African,” a hot chocolate made with cocoa from Niger, Ghana and Côte d’Ivoire, but the lineup is horrendous. Am I the last tourist in Paris to know about Angelina?
My feet are aching by the time I am given a table in the back. Treading in Chanel’s footsteps is wearing me out. Sitting down with relief, I place my new purse across from me as if it’s a charming, albeit leathery-skinned companion.
A woman with a stroller is trying to squeeze past to get to her table in the corner. I pull my chair forward to make room.
“In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.” –Coco Chanel
“Ouch!” I say, bringing up a bleeding finger. A rough patch of wood on the bottom of my seat has scraped my flesh. Admittedly it’s a small cut, but it stings and I might have a sliver and it seems unthinkable a place once patronized by Coco Chanel wouldn’t have a better chair.
An American woman at the table next to me gives me a Band-Aid. The waiter looks helpless.
What would Chanel say?
I debate whether or not to complain, then think of Chanel who once said, “The most courageous act is to still think for yourself. Aloud.”
“Can I talk to the manager?” I ask.
The manager comes over looking a little like Allen Leech, the actor who plays the lovely chauffer-turned-aristocrat in Downton Abbey. “I cut my finger on your chair!” I say.
He looks at me and shrugs. He shrugs!
Losing it among the pastries
It’s the shrug that turns me into a banshee. I can’t remember my exact words, but my tone was shrill, and at one point I’m standing over him yapping while he’s crouched over the upside down chair examining the offending patch of raw wood.
“The worst thing is you don’t even care!” I say.
“I do,” he says.
“You don’t!” I’m almost in tears and I can’t figure out why. Because I’m not Coco Chanel and will never be fashionable, even with a Balenciaga Classic Town bag? Because I’m tired and cranky from walking too far in the footsteps of Chanel? Or because I cut my finger on a stupid chair and just want someone – anyone – to say, “Oh, madame. I’m so sorry. You matter.”
On my way out I hand the manager my card and say, “Here’s my card. Enjoy my review.”
The minute he grasps it another Chanel quote slides into my mind. “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.”
You can buy a purse but you can’t buy class
That stops me. If there was a more vulgar way to conduct myself in Angelina, other than launching into a table dance while wearing emerald green tassels, I was hard pressed to think of it. I’d spent the entire day courting style and all I accomplished was an impressive display of vulgarity.
I may as well be carrying a fake Chanel bag!
Clutching my Balenciaga to my chest, I slink out the door then force myself to stand straight, recalling Coco Chanel’s best quote of all: “I don’t care what you think. I don’t think about you at all.”
A Complete Guide for an In the Footsteps of Coco Chanel in Paris Walking Tour
The Rue Cambon is just off the Rue St Honore, near the back entrance of the Ritz Paris.
The Ritz Paris is at 15 Place Vendôme.
Walking: From the Place Vendôme it’s a lovely – though long – walk down the Rue de Rivoli and past the Place de la Concorde and the Grand Palais and then along Cours Albert 1er down to Avenue George V. Use a map because there are twists and turns.
Balenciaga Paris George V is at 10 Avenue George V.
The gorgeous Four Seasons Hotel George V is at 31 Avenue George V – perfect for an (expensive) stop for refreshments.
If you have the energy walk back to Angelina at 226 Rue Rivoli. Warning: If you’re really tired, take a deep breath and don’t get cranky. Learn from my mistake. A signature Mont-Blanc pastry of meringue, whipped cream and chestnut cream vermicelli will also help.
Where to stay: I stayed at the The Westin Paris – Vendôme at 3 Rue de Castiglione. It’s deluxe enough to channel your inner Chanel, though not as in the same starry price realm as the Ritz or the Four Seasons George V, and is perfectly located to explore all the Coco Chanel in Paris sights.
Want more Europe? Read about the Best Destinations in Europe.
Want more France? Try What to do in the French Riviera
More Paris? Read about The Most Historic Paris Cafes
Rocky Mountaineer routes quiz: and what mountain animal are you?
What a spot on comment, Karen. I hope there marriage is full of much-loved bags, love and appreciation.
That “slightly frumpy wife” is an extremely loved woman if her “pudgy American husband” is buying her a Chanel bag.
Haha. You’re right. I am a brat, Sarah. Also, my finger hurt. But I also think that at luxury destinations such as a high end tea shop, service and kindness is key.
You sound like the biggest brat ever. Who needs to be validated by a manager who knows nothing about them beyond the fact they’re whiny. First world problems, much?
Thanks, Tiffany. I always aim to be whimsical.
Thank you, Style Cannoli! Much appreciated.
This is a wonderful post! I hope to get to Angelina one day as I hear so much and see so many good things!
Wow! This made me want to travel and visit Paris! What a fun and whimsical article. Love your spin on Coco!
Oh, thanks, Jan! I’m so lucky Adventurous Kate mentioned me.
Great Post. Came here via Adventurous Kate and loved the story, writing and particularly the ending to this post.
I’m a pretty go with the flow traveler, but all my friends ‘worst travel experience ever’ stories all seem to have in a spot in Paris in it. I have done quite a bit of international travel but have not been there yet, I’m beginning to wonder if I should avoid it altogether! LOL
Fun read, thanks for sharing!
Tracy @ Ascending Butterfly
I will never forget Coco Chanel after following her footsteps in Paris, Lisa. It made it seem as if I knew her, which I didn’t of course.
This looks like a dream trip! How fun to travel in the footsteps of Coco Chanel.
What a fabulous tour. I haven’t been to a Chanel store yet. I think I will go to one once I win the lottery. LOL.
This was a fun post. The passport quote gave me a good chuckle. :)
Thanks for commenting, Danielle – Glad you like the bag! And I hope I do see most of the people I met in Paris again! On the whole they were outstanding.
Oh my, that bag is so gorgeous! I think that manager should have done something more than just shrug. On the bright side, you probably will never see any of those people again, lol.
Thanks, Peachy. Me, too!
Lovely photos of Paris. I wish I have an original chanel bag!
Now I need to go back and watch Sex and the City again – did Chanel’s apartment features in it?
Yes, Coco Chanel was a mysterious talented creature.
Sounds like quite the adventure! I’ve never known much about Coco Chanel but she has an interesting story.
Okay, so thanks to you this is added to my list of things to do in Paris when I visit. I’ve always wanted an Chanel bag and when I am in a position to purchase one my dream is to make that purchase in Paris. I think it would mean so much to get it from there. I’ve also wanted to visit her apartment thanks to Sex and The City.
Yes, I think you need to spend some time with Chanel in Paris, Trophy Wife!
I want to see your bag collection, Carmen!
Well Janice and George, This lady says thank you.
Omg I might be a tad bit jealous of you right now! I am Chanel obsessed!!! I just take this tour someday!!!! You just made my day now that I know such a tour exist lol
Well, perhaps a lady can be forgiven for losing her cool when she has her heart set on a Chanel bag, has tromped all over Paris, waits in a long line for some refreshment – and then receives no sympathy from a male manager who can’t understand why she might be upset over his lack of concern :-). Is that your new Balenciaga bag on the table in that picture of you? No doubt you’ll come to treasure it as much as you would have one of Coco’s bags :-).
Incredible path in parisian streets, the stops are really typical places to visit in Paris: the Grand Palais and the Angelina tea house are exceptional!
Thanks, Camesha. Glad I’m not the only one.
I love this post! It really makes me miss that city. I love all of your pictures. I remember walking into a Chanel store and feeling like a princess.
Thanks, Russ – Yes, I don’t understand the bag obsession. I have it – I just don’t understand it!
Ha, Gabriel. Glad I didn’t let the socialites down.
Looks like an epic quest that would have done the Knights of the Round Table proud! The diva attack does the socialites of the world proud also, so you covered all your bases.
I genuinely enjoyed reading your post. A male friend of mine would always tell me that one thing that amazes him most about women is our love & passion for bags. I think it’s both a blessing and a curse. We can’t have too many bags or purses. Bags, perfume, and travel are the luxuries I love to enjoy. I use them as motivators. Lol.
I’d hope to do this tour in one of my future trips. It’s a pretty interesting concept. Aside from learning more about Coco Chanel, the tour must have been a feast for the senses. And, sorry to hear about the bleeding incident.
I think all of us have had a fake bag at some point. I remember my first time at the Louis Vuitton store in Paris. It felt like a candy store for me. I’m a big fan of Chanel and have a few purses which I wear on occasion. Although, mine haven’t cost upwards of $7k.
This was a good read. Sometimes, it can be fun to be influenced by some of those eccentric people :)
It took me two times reading this before I figure out who Chanel was so I guess I am ignorant to fashion or It is my migraine. This truly is a great post and I love the quotes as well as you voicing our opinion. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, Dina – I see the absurdity of spending too much money on a designer bag. Then again, I see the absurdity in everything.
Thanks, Yumeating – I do like a good Chanel lipstick.
I just love the style from Chanel. It’s so classic. Timeless and beautiful. I would have loved to do this.
This looks like a journey to remember, I would have flipped if I cut my finger at a restaurant and no one even apologized of at least switched my chair for another one.
What a great post. And, what a great experience for you too.
I can’t imagine ever spending more than $100 on a purse. Ugh that’s an unimaginable amount. I toured Rome this year and seeing this architecture makes me long to go back already.
I’m glad you published. This really was a great travel read. I never really go in to Channel products, even the fake ones (LOL) but can appreciate a good bag and all the luxuries – big or small – life throws at us.
You’re right, Faye – I think of the jacket, too.
Thanks, Jacqui – next time I go I’ll let you know!
wow! How I would have loved to been there with you. You sound like a great person and like you had a lot of fun.
Classic styles, that’s why everyone copies them. I see do need to be ashamed of a quality made copy as long as it is not posing for the real thing. But I think more of her “jacket” than her purse. Trip sounds fun even with boo-boo.
I love this post. I would have lost my temper, too. The last thing I would expect from a manager is a shrug.
Hey, Shaney – I didn’t have the macaroons – maybe that’s why I was cranky!
Such a nice place to visit . i wish i can go there with my family . thanks for this post . love the pictures also I finally saved up enough to buy my own. Now looking back it was just a purse. Now I opt for cheap purses.
Oh wow, I wish I could be there at this moment, that would be awesome! Great photos!
What a really fun filled adventure. Looks like you truly enjoyed it!
Eeeek I’m so jealous, I want those macaroons! Chanel is definitely not in my budget, all I can do is drool…
I loved your story. I am so glad you shared it. I remember when I was a teen, I had to have a douney n Burke purse. I got a few that were similar but not the name. I finally saved up enough to buy my own. Now looking back it was just a purse. Now I opt for cheap purses.
Hi Ricci, I really hope I can see the apartment one day, too – and not just in photos!
Oh Chanel. I would kill to be able to tour her apartment one day. The photos are gorgeous!!
Thanks, Nina. It was a lesson learned. Hopefully. Probably not. I’m sure I’ll lose my cool again.
I would have lost my cool as well. Everything is just darn fabulous.
Well I think we all dream about things like this, then look at the price tag and go “eh maybe not!” For me, I just need it to be functional and maybe cute, and I’m sold. A brand has no meaning to me, but a backpack instead of a diaper back with lots of compartments and something I can take with me both to the library and gym is gold to me.
I’m with you. Sounded like he didn’t care (even if he did, I’m still with you). Balenciaga bag close up please!
What an awesome vacation! This looks like such a beautiful place.
Hi Stacie, Yes, I’m blaming jet lag – at least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!
Thanks, Christy. I really appreciate your comments.
Oh my gosh, I love this post! I am sorry that you hurt your finger, but this is too cute. This was really informative about Coco Chanel too. Love it :)
This was so much fun to read! It can be difficult to keep your cool when you’re dealing with jet lag or just general travel fatigue. It happens to all of us!
Yes, Robin – she was as French as French can be.
I have heard of her, but never knew she was French. I have always wanted to visit Paris and hope to get there some day.
Fun, and some good photos too.
Glad you hit publish, Carol. We’ve all been there when it comes to “travel moments,” especially when jet lag is involved. I thought you turned it into a nice apology.
Thanks, Susie. I almost didn’t publish this post because I look so awful. So I really appreciate your comment.
I’m so glad you lost your cool. It made for a fun read! I loved how you interspersed the Coco quotes throughout the piece. I, too, had a black Coco bag when I was young. I think it was real but it was a gift so who knows. You’ve laid out a fun path the next time I return to Paris. I’d love to stay in the renovated Ritz. :)