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Paddling the Boyne Canal

Touring the Boyne Canal – The Battle of the Boyne

Luxury travel blog » Places to Travel » Europe Travel » Ireland Travel » Touring the Boyne Canal – The Battle of the Boyne
November 1, 2023 by Carol Perehudoff

This post may contain affiliate links.

The Fascinating Boyne Valley in Ireland

Just north of Dublin is the Boyne Valley in County Meath. It’s a destination rich in history, legend and war.

Maybe the most fun way to explore it is to take a Boyne Canal boat tour and paddle in a ‘currach,’ a traditional Irish boat used in A Game of Thrones.

While you’re paddling you’ll learn about the pivotal Battle of the Boyne, a real life battle that changed the course of history in Ireland, England and Scotland.

The front of a currach, a traditional Irish boat.
The Currach – Photo: Carol Perehudoff

My Experience on the Boyne Canal Boat Tour

Was anyone noticing I wasn’t paddling? How could I? I had things to do.

There was scenery to see and photos to snap of the Boyne Canal.

Plus I kept swinging around to hear our bearded guide and the owner of Boyne Boats, Ross Kenny, talking about the Battle of the Boyne.

He described it as Ireland’s real life Game of Thrones. Not only that but there was the whole actual Game of Thrones connection at the Boyne Valley to hear about.

And it’s all because of the currach.

What’s a Currach?

The currach is a traditional Irish boat. To me it looked like a cross between a rowboat and a canoe.

It’s very light and has a rib frame made from steaming and bending oak, which creates a strong framework.

Historically the frame would then be wrapped in animal skins to keep it watertight.

The currach is an adaptable craft, however, and our currach, built by Ross Kenny himself, was instead wrapped in nylon and sealed with bitumen paint.

This, Kenny said, “gives it the look of a black banana.”

A very weathered banana. One that looks atmospheric enough to star in A Game of Thrones and that’s why it became a key prop in the iconic show’s lore.

Game of Thrones Boat Tour Boyne Valley
The currach – Photo: Carol Perehudoff

The Game of Thrones and the Currach Connection

Just think of it, I marvelled as I picked up my paddle. My bottom might be resting on the same wooden plank that once supported Jon Snow’s. And possibly Tyrion Lannister’s! Or the Iron Islanders.

(Although with my luck, my plank more likely held the unwashed bulk of a burly Wildling as he tried to escape the White Walkers.)

Ross, who taught some of A Game of Thrones actors a few currach paddling techniques (though he wasn’t having much luck with me), even made an appearance in the series.

“As any Irishman with a beard did,” he said with a laugh.

So of course I pressed him for juicy Game of Thrones gossip.

I learned that Kit Harington, the actor who played John Snow, is quiet, and that Peter Dinklage (Tyrian Lannister) is good fun in real life. Hey, you heard it here first folks.

An Active Adventure

I stopped daydreaming and picked up the pace, relishing the chance to be active while getting my history and popular culture fix.

These Boyne Canal boat tours are a fun way to explore the Boyne Valley in lush Meath County, floating in a uniquely-Irish boat down the newly-restored canal.

The greenery was rich and overgrown, almost swamp-like, and made me think of Savannah or New Orleans. (PS: I’ve never been to either Savannah or New Orleans. I just make pictures up in my head.)

Whatever it looks like, you can’t get more grounded in Ireland and Irish history than in the Boyne Valley. That’s because of the Battle of the Boyne.

Paddling the Boyne Canal
Boyne Canal – Photo: Carol Perehudoff

Battle of the Boyne

The Battle of the Boyne is more fascinating than A Game of Thrones because, of course, it’s real.

If you’ve ever wondered about the origins of the bitter division between the Protestants and Catholics in Ireland, you can find the seed of it here.

It was sown on the bloody fields of the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.

It was here that William of Orange, the protestant Dutch prince who had been recently crowned King of England, Ireland and Scotland, faced the deposed Catholic king, James II, who had returned from exile in France. 

This ground would be immortalized as the last spot that two crowned kings of England, Ireland and Scotland met each other in battle.

A Twisted Tale

To make things stranger, James II was William’s uncle. He was also William’s father-in-law.

I couldn’t imagine what William’s bride, Mary II, must have thought, but from all reports she was loyal to her husband.

I was starting to see why the Battle of the Boyne is referred to as Ireland’s real life Game of Thrones.

Boyne boats Game of Thrones currach
Are we in Westeros yet?

The Battlefield

The Battle of the Boyne was the largest gathering of military might ever to be seen in Ireland.

More than 60,000 troops gathered along the banks of the River Boyne, which lies just 30 miles north of Dublin.

Ross told us we’re bisecting the actual battle site at the main fording point where William’s forces crossed to the south.

Setting down my paddle again (probably you wouldn’t want to be my boating partner) I trid to imagine it: horses rearing, muskets firing. Campfires on the eve of the battle; James on the south side of the Boyne River, William of Orange on the north.

I pictured King William, a veteran fighter, gazing across the water, strategizing for the battle that would determine England, Scotland and Ireland’s fate for centuries to come.

A shot rings out. William gets hit.

A Royalist Defeat

It might have ended the battle before it even took place, but the bullet only grazed William’s shoulder, and the next day the Battle of the Boyne began.

After only four hours of fighting, James II lost. The Royalists were defeated. Catholic resistance collapsed.

Like a bend on the Boyne River, the course of Irish history was altered forever. William III and Mary II would go on to rule jointly until her death in 1694.

Our currach glided through the still water of the canal, slicing through tree branch reflections under a startling blue sky. I’ve been to historic sites where I’ve stepped back in time, but on this trip I’m cutting right through it.

 

 

Things to Do in the Boyne Valley

For Active Adventurers try a Boyne Boat Adventure

A Boyne boat tour is not strenuous (unless you’re my partner) and is ideal for families and history buffs.

Location: Boyne Boats Adventure is at Oldbridge, Drogheda, Ireland 0000 Co. Meath.
Tel: +353 86 361 6420. For GPS: Latitude: 53.7233816 Longitude: -6.4234662 Visit their website for more info.

Two Different Battle of the Boyne Boats Adventure Tours

  1. The King’s Tour: A 90-minute paddling tour that travels the length of the canal. It starts at the sealock at the Lock keeper’s house, then travels upstream around Oldbridge house – The Battle of the Boyne visitor centre. Cost is €20 p.p. or €135 for a full boat.
  2.  The Paddle like an Iron Islander tour is a shorter 60-minute paddle. Cost: €16 p.p. or €110 for a full boat.

Stop in at the Battle of the Boyne Visitor’s Centre

While you’re in the area don’t miss the Battle of the Boyne Visitor’s Centre.

Here you can learn more about the history of the battle. There is parkland to wander over, multi-media displays and a large model of the battle site as it would have been in 1690.

The Visitor’s Centre is located in the 18th-century Oldbridge House.

What Is the Boyne Canal?

The Boyne Navigation is a series of canals that run roughly parallel to the Boyne River.

There are about 31 km of canals altogether. This newly-restored stretch I was on is 1.6 km long and 10m wide at its widest point.

The restoration of the Boyne Canal is being undertaken by devoted volunteers. You can learn more at the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland’s Boyne Navigation Branch.

About the Boyne Valley

There is so much to see in the Boyne Valley, County Meath.

For me, a highlight was the mystical Hill of Tara.

Other things to do include visiting the megalithic site of Newgrange, posh Slane Castle and of course, the beautiful Boyne Canal and the setting for the Battle of the Boyne.

My trip was hosted by Tourism Ireland and Failte Ireland. All opinions and inferior paddling skills are my own. Visit the Tourism Ireland website for more info on travel in Ireland or go to Ireland’s Ancient East.

Looking for more things to do in Ireland? Check out my Game of Thrones Winterfell Tour in the north.

 

 

 

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Category: Adventure, Ireland Travel

About Carol Perehudoff

A former freelance travel columnist for the Toronto Star, Carol has won more than 30 writing awards and honours. A spa and luxury travel expert, she’s written for top travel publications around the globe.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jennifer (@matdifference)

    It always amazes me how much a movie or TV show can increase tourism. I am glad to see that a local business got employment from the show and benefits from the tourism after the show is done filming.

  2. Carol Perehudoff

    And here I thought you’d done everything there is to do in Ireland, Lauren.

  3. Carol Perehudoff

    Hi Sandy. I agree, the history of the Battle of the Boyne is the most interesting aspect of the boat trip.

  4. Carol Perehudoff

    Yes, Punita, I think the weathered-banana description of a currach is unique indeed. I wonder how Jon Snow feels about it?

  5. Carol Perehudoff

    Hi Mei, It’s definitely a canal filled with history. Thanks for reading.

  6. Mei & Kerstin 👭🌍 (@_travelwithmk)

    WOW! We’ve never had a boat tour through such an awesome canal! And paddling a currach sounds like lots of fun! And you’re right: the lush green scenery does look a bit like in Savannah (although it rained a lot when we visited Savannah last year…)! Also, I’ve never heard of the Battle of the Boyne! I knew about the division between the Protestants and Catholics in many other European countries, but didn’t know about it in Ireland! Thanks a lot for this inspiring story!

  7. Brown Gal Trekker

    This is a perfect thing to do on a lazy day if I lived in Ireland. It looks quite relaxing and meditative!

  8. 100cobbledroads

    Interesting description of the traditional Irish boat as a very weathered banana :) I throughly enjoyed your engaging narrative and if I were you, I would be inclined to have a similar other-worldly experience :) :)

  9. Sandy N Vyjay

    The Boyne Canal Boat Tour looks really interesting for many reasons. First of all the opportunity to admire the natural beauty of the vicinity. The second is to travel on the Currach, the third is to draw a vicarious thrill from the fact that this was a Game of Thrones location. Finally the history associated with the area is the most fascinating aspect of all.

  10. Lauren

    This is really cool! I didn’t know you could do a trip like this near Dublin! Something to add to my list for next time. Which I hope is soon because I loved Ireland so so much. I’d like to take a trip down this serene place…and perhaps place my bum where Jon Snow once did :D

  11. Alli Blair

    Thank you for introducing me to the world of a currach! This seems like an absolutely wonderful experience in a very beautiful setting! :)

  12. Kiyoko

    Would love to take this tour! The US school system doesn’t teach you much about the history of other countries, so it would be really interesting to learn more about the Battle of the Boyne. Plus, a boat ride on that canal looks like a pretty enjoyable experience regardless!

  13. Medha

    The Boyne canal looks beautiful. And i am intrigued to learn what a currach is, never heard of this term before. What a brilliant experience it seems like !

  14. Carolina Colborn

    Absolutely fascinating tale! Thanks for introducing it to me. What a historical place.

  15. Carol Perehudoff

    Thanks, Rebecca. The history you pass through on the Boyne Boats tour is pretty amazing.

  16. R Minton

    Interesting Carol. I love the video, too.

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