Touring the Boyne Canal – The Battle of the Boyne

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The Fascinating Boyne Valley in Ireland

Just north of Dublin is the Boyne Valley in County Meath. It’s a destination rich in history, legend and war.

Maybe the most fun way to explore it is to take a Boyne Canal boat tour and paddle in a ‘currach,’ a traditional Irish boat used in A Game of Thrones.

While you’re paddling you’ll learn about the pivotal Battle of the Boyne, a real life battle that changed the course of history in Ireland, England and Scotland.

My Experience on the Boyne Canal Boat Tour

Was anyone noticing I wasn’t paddling? How could I? I had things to do.

There was scenery to see and photos to snap of the Boyne Canal.

Plus I kept swinging around to hear our bearded guide and the owner of Boyne Boats, Ross Kenny, talking about the Battle of the Boyne.

He described it as Ireland’s real life Game of Thrones. Not only that but there was the whole actual Game of Thrones connection at the Boyne Valley to hear about.

And it’s all because of the currach.

What’s a Currach?

The currach is a traditional Irish boat. To me it looked like a cross between a rowboat and a canoe.

It’s very light and has a rib frame made from steaming and bending oak, which creates a strong framework.

Historically the frame would then be wrapped in animal skins to keep it watertight.

The currach is an adaptable craft, however, and our currach, built by Ross Kenny himself, was instead wrapped in nylon and sealed with bitumen paint.

This, Kenny said, “gives it the look of a black banana.”

A very weathered banana. One that looks atmospheric enough to star in A Game of Thrones and that’s why it became a key prop in the iconic show’s lore.

The Game of Thrones and the Currach Connection

Just think of it, I marvelled as I picked up my paddle. My bottom might be resting on the same wooden plank that once supported Jon Snow’s. And possibly Tyrion Lannister’s! Or the Iron Islanders.

(Although with my luck, my plank more likely held the unwashed bulk of a burly Wildling as he tried to escape the White Walkers.)

Ross, who taught some of A Game of Thrones actors a few currach paddling techniques (though he wasn’t having much luck with me), even made an appearance in the series.

“As any Irishman with a beard did,” he said with a laugh.

So of course I pressed him for juicy Game of Thrones gossip.

I learned that Kit Harington, the actor who played John Snow, is quiet, and that Peter Dinklage (Tyrian Lannister) is good fun in real life. Hey, you heard it here first folks.

An Active Adventure

I stopped daydreaming and picked up the pace, relishing the chance to be active while getting my history and popular culture fix.

These Boyne Canal boat tours are a fun way to explore the Boyne Valley in lush Meath County, floating in a uniquely-Irish boat down the newly-restored canal.

The greenery was rich and overgrown, almost swamp-like, and made me think of Savannah or New Orleans. (PS: I’ve never been to either Savannah or New Orleans. I just make pictures up in my head.)

Whatever it looks like, you can’t get more grounded in Ireland and Irish history than in the Boyne Valley. That’s because of the Battle of the Boyne.

Battle of the Boyne

The Battle of the Boyne is more fascinating than A Game of Thrones because, of course, it’s real.

If you’ve ever wondered about the origins of the bitter division between the Protestants and Catholics in Ireland, you can find the seed of it here.

It was sown on the bloody fields of the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.

It was here that William of Orange, the protestant Dutch prince who had been recently crowned King of England, Ireland and Scotland, faced the deposed Catholic king, James II, who had returned from exile in France. 

This ground would be immortalized as the last spot that two crowned kings of England, Ireland and Scotland met each other in battle.

A Twisted Tale

To make things stranger, James II was William’s uncle. He was also William’s father-in-law.

I couldn’t imagine what William’s bride, Mary II, must have thought, but from all reports she was loyal to her husband.

I was starting to see why the Battle of the Boyne is referred to as Ireland’s real life Game of Thrones.

The Battlefield

The Battle of the Boyne was the largest gathering of military might ever to be seen in Ireland.

More than 60,000 troops gathered along the banks of the River Boyne, which lies just 30 miles north of Dublin.

Ross told us we’re bisecting the actual battle site at the main fording point where William’s forces crossed to the south.

Setting down my paddle again (probably you wouldn’t want to be my boating partner) I trid to imagine it: horses rearing, muskets firing. Campfires on the eve of the battle; James on the south side of the Boyne River, William of Orange on the north.

I pictured King William, a veteran fighter, gazing across the water, strategizing for the battle that would determine England, Scotland and Ireland’s fate for centuries to come.

A shot rings out. William gets hit.

A Royalist Defeat

It might have ended the battle before it even took place, but the bullet only grazed William’s shoulder, and the next day the Battle of the Boyne began.

After only four hours of fighting, James II lost. The Royalists were defeated. Catholic resistance collapsed.

Like a bend on the Boyne River, the course of Irish history was altered forever. William III and Mary II would go on to rule jointly until her death in 1694.

Our currach glided through the still water of the canal, slicing through tree branch reflections under a startling blue sky. I’ve been to historic sites where I’ve stepped back in time, but on this trip I’m cutting right through it.