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Luxury travel blog » Travel articles by country » Bess of Hardwick in the Peak District of England

Bess of Hardwick in the Peak District of England

Travelling to the England? Don’t miss the sights related to the wealthy Bess of Hardwick in the Peak District of England, one of the most fascinating women in Elizabethan England.

Bess of Hardwick – the epitome of Elizabethan Girl Power

You wouldn’t think marrying your 13-year old cousin would start you off on a profitable marriage trail, but when flame-haired Bess of Hardwick, later the Countess of Shrewsbury, got hitched at the age of 15 it was the first step in a long line of marrying up.

Peak District England

 

The second most important woman of the Elizabethan Age

Everyone’s heard of Elizabeth I, the daughter of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. She would go on to become one of England’s most famous queens, but this is the story of the second most powerful woman of the Elizabethan Age, another red-headed Elizabeth, better known as Bess of Hardwick?

Today, more than 400 years after Bess of Hardwick’s death, it’s almost impossible to travel to the Peak District of England around Derbyshire where she was born and not come across a few Bess of Hardwick sites.

An architectural visionary

Forward thinking when it came to building, and responsible for the construction of the area’s most stately manors, Bess of Hardwick was equally gifted at the art of marrying well. She wed four times, each to a more wealthy aristocrat.

By the time she was on her last husband, no one could rival her for status or riches other than Queen Elizabeth I. Today, two of Bess’s former estates in the Peak District of England, Hardwick and Chatsworth, as well as Derby Cathedral highlight some of her architectural accomplishments.

Touring Hardwick Hall

Curious to see if Bess of Hardwick’s building accomplishments equal her gold-digging accomplishments, I joined Ellen Outram, a Peak District tourism official, at Hardwick Hall, a warm stone Elizabethan manor that sits beside the ruins of Bess’s previous home, Old Hardwick Hall, which lies just outside the city of Chesterfield.

Completed in 1597 when Bess of Hardwick was 71 and done with marriage for good, Hardwick Hall pushed the boundaries of style with symmetrical lines and has so many glittering windows (unheard of for its time) that it became known as ‘Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall.’

Hardwick Hall Peak District England

I’ll just put my initials on my own mansion

 

Who was this woman, I wonder aloud? And why can’t I have a house like that?

“Bess of Hardwick had no reputation as a beauty,” says Ellen.

“Oh, good. There’s hope for us all.”

“She was more known as a businessperson. But she had charm and charisma.”

Flaunting her wealth

She must have had something to rise so high. And, like many a nouveau riche woman after her, she wasn’t afraid to flaunt it. In case you should forget Hardwick was Bess’s creation, for example, her giant-sized stone initials, ES for Elizabeth of Shrewsbury, run across the top of the house.

“Bess of Hardwick’s house is an exercise in Girl Power,” says Neil Wright, keeper of the collections at Hardwick Hall. “It’s not subtle. It’s a making-a-fist-in-your-face house.”

It’s the Trump Tower of the Elizabethan Age, all right, and in a time when women rarely owned property, it made a strong statement. It still makes a strong statement today.

Bess of Hardwick – a tough woman in tougher times

Nonetheless, Bess’s life wasn’t all roses. After her first three husbands died (her third likely poisoned by his brother), Bess of Hardwick married the mighty Earl of Shrewsbury, who was, some say, driven mad by the gargantuan task Elizabeth I had set before him, guarding the prisoner Mary Queen of Scots, a drain on his finances that would last 15 years.

High born Mary, shuffled between the Earl of Shrewsbury’s various properties, was no easy prisoner, insisting on a large retinue and courtly trappings. Not only that, her loyal supporters (and smitten admirers) kept launching plots to put her on the English throne.

It was a colossal headache for the Earl of Shrewsbury and no picnic for his wife, Bess, who must have been worried her husband would succumb to the Scottish Queen’s legendary charms.

Chatsworth Peak District England

Chatsworth

Bess of Hardwick’s building empire begins

Bess took her stress out in building palatial manors. Chatsworth, where Mary occasionally stayed and where Bess of Hardwick raised her children from her second marriage to William Cavendish, is one of Britain’s most-visited homes and was the model for Pemberley in Jane Austin’s Pride and Prejudice (both the book and the film.

It’s one of the most impressive sites relating to Bess of Hardwick in the Peak District. While little remains of her original walls, as it was redone in the 1690’s, Chatsworth is a regal estate. The grounds are spectacular and at the front gate I happen upon one of Bess of Hardwick’s descendants, the 12th Duke of Devonshire.

 

The Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth

While I don’t actually speak to the Duke to Devonshire, he does throw a polite smile in my general direction. Unlike Bess of Hardwick, this is as close as I’ll come to marrying up.

“He lives here with his wife,” Ellen informs me.

Bess of Hardwick in the Peak District tomb

A tomb she designed herself

 

Derby Cathedral in the Peak District, Bess of Hardwick’s final resting place

Ah well. We all have our lots in life and apparently mine is not going to be set in a stately home full of priceless art and treasures. All that’s left now is to visit Derby Cathedral. This is where Bess of Hardwick’s memorial, which she commissioned and designed herself, commands attention. A dramatic contrast of marble and alabaster, it’s over 7-metres high, contains a lifelike effigy of Bess and ensures that even in death, Bess of Hardwick remains an icon of Elizabethan Girl Power.

 

Travel tips for visiting Bess of Hardwick sites in the Peak District of England

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Visiting Bess of Hardwick sites in the Peak District of England is a fascinating way to explore Elizabethan England and one of its most powerful women

 

The Peak District in the East Midlands area of England is known for its scenic hills and dales, excellent walking trails and, of course, Bess of Hardwick and her stately homes.

Where to Stay: To visit Hardwick Hall, a National Trust property, Chesterfield is a convenient gateway. Try Buckinghams Hotel, known for its excellent cuisine.

If you want to experience the area’s natural beauty and stay near Chatsworth, the towns of Bakewell and Buxton are better bets. In the historic spa town of Buxton, the 3-star Old Hall Hotel was once a home owned by the Earl of Shrewsbury and hosted Mary Queen of Scots.

For more information about Bess of Hardwick and touring the stately home of Hardwick and Chatsworth visit www.visitpeakdistrict.com

Read more: about top places to visit in England

Read more: about my picks for top European destinations

Comments

  1. Mickie Koponen says

    February 25, 2012 at 8:00 pm

    Rebecca,
    Anything you can tell us about what to see in Plymouth? We want to go there also in October.

    Mickie

  2. Mickie Koponen says

    February 25, 2012 at 7:57 pm

    Hi Rebecca,
    I must check my email on this site more often. Here it is Feb. and I am just now replying to your mail. I am so glad to hear that you liked Chatsworth. It was very special and on our trip to England in October, we want to see Bess of Hardwick’s home, Hardwick Hall. We finally got our tickets to come across the pond. ;-) Not sure what we will end up seeing but we should have at least ten days in England. Have you seen Leeds Castle? That is another beautiful place. The grounds are what makes it so outstanding. I also love Hampton Court and Canterbury. I have relatives from long ago that came from Kent. One of the things for sure that we will see in Cornwall is St. Michael’s Mount. My real name is Michael. My Dad liked the name for a girl for some reason and now that I am older, I like the meaning of the name. Wasn’t happy with it growing up though. lol Hope you are doing okay this winter. Where we are in California, we are in a major drought for us. Hardly any rain at all this winter but we have had a lot of frost and cold nights. Spring is trying to come with our current sunshine. Hope to hear back from you.

    Mickie

  3. Rebecca Minton says

    November 3, 2011 at 12:52 pm

    So, yeah, I went to Chatsworth, Buxton, Glastonbury and Bath…all because of your blog. I loved them all. Chatsworth is immense and has beautiful Van Dykes. We stayed at the hotel you recommended in Buxton and our room was 2 doors down from Queen Mary’s Bower. It was our favorite hotel on this whole trip due to the comfort, Tudor portraits everywhere, good healthy bar food and proximity to train station. Glastonbury is lovely.

  4. Mickie Koponen says

    October 19, 2011 at 4:05 am

    Thank You for your reply wanderingcarol. We have been to Bath a couple of times now and have enjoyed it each time. We bought a painting in one of the old antique collector stores in Bath. I love its old frame. So much to see in England and so hard to decide what to see. Will try to spend five days in the Cornwall area and then another five days in the Cotswolds. I look at places on the site, PicturesofEngland.com. So many beautiful pictures on this site and it helps to see which places I don’t want to miss. Glastonbury is on my list of places to see. ;-)

  5. Rebecca Minton says

    September 3, 2011 at 11:37 pm

    So, Glastonbury or Buxton…which would you prefer to return to? I’m trying to decide between one day spiritual retreat and Chatsworth. Oh wise one.

  6. wanderingcarol says

    July 1, 2011 at 12:10 pm

    Hi Mickie,
    Hmmm. Where to go? I’m not sure what you’re after exactly but it’s hard to go wrong with Bath – one of the most beautiful towns ever. From there you could hop over to Glastonbury if you’re into something wacky and spiritual. Best o’ luck.

  7. Mickie Koponen says

    June 30, 2011 at 8:45 pm

    We are hoping to get back to England in the fall of 2012. Wanted to know if you have any suggestions for our trip, Wanderingcarol? We plan to see Cornwall and maybe get over to East Coast and see what is on the other side of England.

  8. wanderingcarol says

    April 13, 2011 at 1:14 pm

    To Mickie,
    Bess of Hardwick was one of the most amazing women in England – though it’s said that between her and Mary Queen of Scots her husband was driven to insanity. Mind you, I think Queen Elizabeth had something to do with his problems, as she wouldn’t pay what she owed him for looking after her prisoner, Mary Queen of Scots. Anyway, if you go, do check out Buxton, too, if you haven’t already. It’s lovely.

  9. Mickie Koponen says

    April 13, 2011 at 11:46 am

    Chatsworth and Catherdral were not spelled correctly. Should proof read my mail before sending it.

  10. Mickie Koponen says

    April 13, 2011 at 11:44 am

    Just finished reading a book about Bess of Hardwick and am hoping that the next time we come over to England we can visit her home, Hardwick Hall and Derby Catheral. She was an amazing woman. Have already been to Chatworth and the Peak District. We have been to England four times and can’t wait to go again.

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